Susan Cianciolo—this year’s recipient of the CFDA’s Isabel Toledo Board of Directors’ Tribute—hasn’t been on the New York Fashion Week schedule for years. Still, her quiet and steady influence can be felt in the work of a new generation of designers who are following her lead in finding fresh ways to exist soulfully within a broken industry. For some fans of fashion, Cianciolo’s Run collections of the 1990s (read all about them here) are part of an indie grail.
Community, artfulness, upcycling, and spirituality all came together in the multimedia presentations Cianciolo put on in galleries and once a parking lot. Her work was, and is, an extension of her life. At one show, she served chocolate treats made using a beloved aunt’s recipe.
And she often called upon her friends to model, including Kim Gordon, for whom she briefly worked at X-Girl. Given Cianciolo’s unconventional and personal approach to fashion, it’s surprising—and thrilling—that a kind of School of Cianciolo has emerged in New York City. These “graduates” include Giovanna Flores, and SC103’s cofounders Claire McKinney and Sophie Andes Gascon, all of whom studied and or worked with the designer.
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta belong in this group as well; as admirers of Cianciolo’s work, they regularly book her for their shows. She also made appearances on the runway for her BFF Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Below three of Cianciolo’s former students share thoughts on their mentor.
Giovanna Flores had Cianciolo as a teacher her sophomore year, interned for the designer and then assisted her post grad. There is something so inspiring about her holistic way of being an artist, something I had never really encountered before knowing her. Her practice extends into every aspect of her life, and I think that has had a profound influence on me.
Choose your own quality,’ is something she once told me that has always stayed with me. I find myself returning to those words constantly in my own practice. To me, it’s about making choices that feel true to the work and to myself, rather than accepting the way things are conventionally done or how they’re expected to be.
Extract — continue reading at the source.
