At Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo, tomorrow’s runway icons shine

Inside Shibuya Hikarie Hall on the afternoon of Aug. 31, a Mongolian ger (large yurt) dominates the space. Around it, models in earth tones, gossamer-thin layers, technical outerwear, braided cords and intricately constructed garments stalk along a square runway with guests seated on all four sides. Then the lights go out and fluorescent footprints appear across the floor.

Designer Yoshio Kubo emerges to take a bow, a black light illuminating his face painted a fluorescent green. It was an appropriately dramatic opening for Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo’s 2027 Spring/Summer season, which runs through Sept. 5.