Tokyo, Copenhagen, New York, London, Milan, Paris, Shanghai: The designer quotes here come from hundreds of spring 2027 collection reviews filed by the Vogue Runway team. We’ve organized their words into five categories representing the season’s through lines. At the top of the list is a back-to-reality mindset; designers are prioritizing relatability and wearability over fantasy and character dressing.
As Tokyo-based Viviano Sue noted: “Fashion is supposed to be something people can wear, no matter how crazy it is.” To counter the steady stream of bad news, many big names adopted a glass-half-full mindset for spring 2027, including Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy. Hermès’s Nadège Vanhée said her MO was “to walk around a very simple notion of air—a-i-r—and this idea of how the air can be perceptible but also imperceptible.” It was a pretty cool approach. Celine’s Michael Rider leads a pack of creatives who seek spontaneous styling, embrace imperfection, and refuse to be bound by rules.
This offbeat tendency doesn’t preclude a desire to make a big splash, of course. Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner spoke of “this very universal feeling of sometimes wanting to feel glamorous, sometimes wanting to feel like a star.” Shine on. Realism “It was the idea of being in the moment, in this time.
What I was mainly interested in is working for people now.”—Miuccia Prada, Miu Miu “The moment we’re living in calls not for fashion magic but for fashion realism.”—Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, Moschino “We’re really looking at how to translate all these ideas we’ve been having into a bit more reality and a way of dressing. We’ve been brand building for the last two seasons, creating a new universe that’s resonating…. Now, how do you bring clothes into that conversation?”—Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Loewe “Martin Margiela was about the anti when he began in the late 1980s, so we really worked with that—the hard and the soft, this kind of contradiction in fabric.
I’m trying to really figure out how can we bring a strong concept in and be really consistent in the concept in every garment, but without being also scary.”—Glenn Martens, Maison Margiela “I wanted to refine everything and let the clothes and shapes speak for themselves, and let the models transform into these real characters. And I think me evolving as a woman, and thinking about what I actually want to wear, helped prompt this push.”—Mowalola Ogunlesi, Mowalola “I felt a sense that high fashion has slipped out of reach for the average person, and so I wanted to figure out how to pass on the kind of fashion I had enjoyed to the next generation and to share that richness.”—Keisuke Yoshida, Keisukeyoshida “We are making clothes—we’re not making art. Fashion is supposed to be something people can wear, no matter how crazy it is.”—Viviano Sue, Viviano Joy “Not to go too philosophical, but I think there is a space for poetry, beauty, joy, and it’s a good remedy to the dark time.
I think fashion should give this to women.”—Matthieu Blazy, Chanel “I wanted to have references to happiness and joy. It’s those kinds of moments that you want to freeze and make that moment into an object or idea that will romantically survive the creator and this container of it.”—Patricio Campillo, Campillo “[Fashion is] serious work. But there is a type of fun, and I think there should be humor because when we are doing fittings, we’re having so much fun.
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