Koyra Upazila, Bangladesh – The Shakbaria river’s low tide has pulled the water back, exposing a wide, slippery mudbank between Suranjan Raptan and the edge of the Sundarbans, the world’s largest tidal mangrove forest. For most of his life, Suranjan has relied on this forest as his pharmacy. He rises before the sun, crosses into the mangroves in a small boat and walks barefoot through the clay-mud jungle for hours, carrying a knife to cut the leaves, roots and bark he uses to make medicines.
Today, the 40-year-old traditional healer, or kabiraj, has come to borrow his uncle’s boat. Chapal Raptan, Suranjan’s uncle and a honey collector, is a medium-built man with sharp features. Come in and sit,” Chapal Raptan answers, his voice hoarse.
I won’t sit now; I’m heading to the forest to bring back some plants. I want to take your boat.” “Okay, uncle. If you feel worse, I’ll send medicine,” Suranjan says as he sets off.
Beyond the courtyard lies the road, then the Shakbaria river, and across it, the Sundarbans. Suranjan finds the overturned boat and lowers it into the water. Leaves and fruits from the forest have gathered on the muddy bank.
His feet sink deep into the sticky mud. He climbs into the boat, dangling his legs over the side to wash them, and the wind pushes him across small waves towards the forest. Stepping into the Sundarbans, the smell of wet mud and salt fills the air.
Mangrove roots twist up from the water like claws. Kingfishers sound sharp notes in the half-light; insects hum and leaves sway in the breeze. Suranjan walks barefoot, saying it allows him to feel the ground and move quietly, and that sandals slip too easily.
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