There are only a handful of skincare ingredients proven to work—and retinol is one of them. It’s part of a larger category of ingredients called retinoids, all derived from vitamin A and considered the gold standard for transforming skin’s texture, clarity, tone, and overall appearance. There’s a major caveat, though: Because it can be irritating, retinol can’t be used by everyone and you have to be very careful when combining it with other ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C, and certain exfoliating acids.
Whether you have sensitive, acne-prone, or even normal skin, holy-grail retinol can be decidedly less holy if it leaves your complexion red, dry, peeling, or flaky (collectively known as the dreaded ‘retinol purge’). It’s not just retinol, BTW. All forms of vitamin A, even low-strength versions, have the potential to cause some degree of irritation, especially for newbies taking the plunge (most derms recommend beginning with a lower concentration of the ingredient a few times a week).
That’s because retinoids essentially ask skin cells to behave differently by influencing cell turnover, differentiation, and collagen production to improve texture, fine lines, and photoaging, explains Santa Monica-, and Beverly Hills-based board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD. Meet the experts: Ava Shamban, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Santa Monica and Beverly Hills. Melissa Fox is a celebrity master esthetician and Founder of Flawless by Melissa Fox in Miami and West Palm Beach.
Debra Luftman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in Beverly Hills. Still, some skin types, especially those with compromised skin barriers or dry, sensitive, eczema- or rosacea-prone skin simply can’t tolerate vitamin A-derived ingredients, no matter how low and slow they go. For that reason, these ingredients have earned an unfair reputation as overly irritating, claims Melissa Fox, a celebrity master esthetician and Founder of Flawless by Melissa Fox in Miami and West Palm Beach.
Known as hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), this next-generation retinoic acid ester is a virtually less-irritating molecule and just may be the secret for those that have been forced to swear off retinol. Intrigued, I spoke with two dermatologists and an aesthetician, all well-versed in the world of retinoids, about what makes HPR different yet beneficial, and everything you need to know before making it your new favorite skincare ingredient. So what is this magical molecule?
HPR, also listed as ‘granactive retinoid’ on some ingredient labels, is the newest member of the retinoid family and is quickly becoming a go-to alternative to stronger, harsher iterations. For traditional retinol to work its magic, it must first convert into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, Dr. For example, tretinoin, available only by prescription, is already retinoic acid and therefore considered your strongest option.
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