TV critics have described Nigella Lawson as the "icing on the cake" of The Great British Bake Off, as the show returned for a new series on Tuesday. Lawson has replaced Dame Prue Leith, who announced she was leaving earlier this year after nearly a decade in the programme's famous tent. The Telegraph said Lawson gives the Channel 4 series a "new lease of life", while Digital Spy agreed she was a "brilliant addition" to the line-up.
But the Independent was cooler on the launch episode as a whole, saying the show "wastes Nigella's prodigious charms and misses chance for a true revamp". The return of Bake Off saw Lawson join fellow judge Paul Hollywood, who has appeared on the programme since its launch in 2010, and presenters Alison Hammond and Noel Fielding. Former Bake Off winner Giuseppe Dell'Anno told BBC Radio 4's Today that Lawson "did produce a step change" to the show and was a "nice fit with the ethos of the programme".
"She was doing her best by capturing the vibes of a cake, the feelings, what it makes you think of, which was very nicely balanced by Paul being very technical and scrutinising," he said. "I think, however, that she will get better over time, because my gut feeling yesterday was that she was still in new territory." In a five-star review, the Guardian's Lucy Mangan, external said Lawson "moves through Bake Off dispensing words of wisdom, generous praise and gentle criticism". She added that Lawson is "just as confident as Leith but a much quieter, more soothing presence that works perfectly with Alison Hammond's ebullience and Paul Hollywood's teacher-ish vibe".
The Telegraph's Anita Singh, external also awarded five stars, remarking that "Bake Off and Nigella are a match made in heaven". "She brings glamour, intelligence and poise. And, of course, a hefty dollop of innuendo," Singh said.
"Lawson is supportive in her judging but not afraid to tell the bakers where they can improve. She gives helpful advice." The launch episode was described as "one of the most disastrous openers ever" by Metro's Adam Miller, external - but luckily he was only referring to the cakes. "When Bake Off should be crumbling after 17 seasons, Nigella Lawson is making Channel 4's crown jewel fresher than ever," he said.
"It's clear to see she is the lifeline Bake Off needed to ensure it could easily have another decade or more in it yet." However, other critics said Channel 4 had missed an opportunity to revitalise the programme. Awarding two stars, the Independent's Nick Hilton, external said Lawson quickly "feels part of the fabric," adding: "But this is also the problem. The Bake Off format is very tired." He wrote: "The cakes wobble, the decorations melt, the bakers over-salt the batter, and everything remains the same.
Extract — continue reading at the source.
