A Tiny Town in the Italian Riviera Has Its Own Version of Focaccia, and Let This Be a Warning—It's Addictive

As temperatures soared into the mid-90s during Europe’s heat wave, I packed my bags and embarked on a six-hour road trip from Switzerland to Liguria. Rather than seeking out seasonal treats like granita or gelato, I was headed to the Italian coast for focaccia. When most Americans­—and Italians, for that matter—think of focaccia, they think of the pillowy-soft version that’s leavened with yeast, baked in a sheet pan and perfect for scarpetta, or the mopping up of delicious sauces.

However, ask any Ligurian, and they will tell you that the focaccia that reigns supreme is focaccia di Recco. Focaccia di Recco is a specialty dish in Liguria. Starkly different from the carbohydrate found in the United States, this yeast-free snack is a thin flatbread filled with gooey cheese—usually crescenza or stracchino—and baked in a super-hot oven until crispy and golden brown.

Certified as just one of four foods of the Ligurian coast with a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation from the European Union, an official focaccia di Recco can be made only in Recco or neighboring Camogli, Sori or Avegno. Along with sea-salt cured anchovies, basil and olive oil, focaccia di Recco is the pride of the Ligurian people. For two decades, a consortium, the Consorzio della Focaccia di Recco, has safeguarded the legend of the bread by promoting it through annual events like the Recco Focaccia Festival.

It perfectly reflects the spirit of Ligurian cooking. … It looks simple, yet making it well takes experience, patience and respect for the ingredients.” Even revered pizza makers in Italy hold focaccia di Recco in high esteem, agreeing that it is worth the pilgrimage. It is a beautiful example of how Italian tradition transforms simple ingredients into something extraordinary.” According to the consortium, the history of focaccia di Recco can be traced back to 1189, when a version of the bread appeared on the table of medieval knights before they made their departure for the Holy Land during the Third Crusade. However, it was during the raids by Saracen pirates around the 16th century that focaccia di Recco became what it is today, confirms Lucio Bernini, the consortium’s director.

Research shows that as locals from Recco fled to the mountains, the ingredients they carried with them—flour, oil and cheese—were combined and cooked over slate stone. At the end of the 1800s, bakeries and taverns sold focaccia di Recco to residents in celebration of All Souls’ Day (November 2), the day after All Saints’ Day, which marks a two-day Christian observance of saints and martyrs, as well as those who are deceased. Nowadays, focaccia di Recco is a staple in the Ligurian diet, with locals in the region’s four provinces having constant access to it throughout the day.

In the 19th century, Panificio Moltedo, a bakery that still stands in Recco, was the first to sell focaccia di Recco. The now fifth-generation-owned bakery recently celebrated its 150th year making its wafer-thin pastry; unlike other bakeries and taverns, Panificio Moltedo does not bake its focaccia in a pan but rather directly on the deck of the oven, like a pizza, for maximum crispness. Another longtime favorite is Manuelina.